Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
